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Here is a posting that I put up some time ago, explaining how I convert locomotive riveted back plates to becoming a screwed up option using 6BA screws & nuts.
Quote:
I have a suggestion as an alternative to using rivets to fit the sight glass mounting again.
This involves soldering in 2 x 6BA screws into the rivet holes to allow you to remove the sight glass mount easier when you need to replace the plastic glass again.
Sorry no photos but here is what I've done with the ...
Just take my advice, listen to the voice in the video. Whenever I say, I'm going to start it up......well turn down the volume then. When engine stops listen to voice then turn down volume
What is the difference between the first edition SLK's and later ones?
It seems my joke back fired. Putting a 1st issue into the listing for this RS1 got it an incredible £360 - not bad when you consider what they actually meant to say was that the RS1 set was the 1st of 7 sets produced by Mamod. Sadly the winner thinks he is getting a 1st Issue G Scale RS1, when of course it is just a very common O Gauge RS1, but incorrectly listed - Oops! - http://cgi.ebay ...
Do these modifications also give more of a "chuff" than the regular exhaust?
That is similar to what I've done with my IP Jane, although I've just used a piece of 5/32" pipe slide over the 1/8" exhaust pipe, soldered up the top of this pipe & drilled a small hole in the side. It has changed the chuff of my Jane a bit, and the steam/water/oil is now directed to the front of the chimney before exiting.
the final frontier of my experiments. has anyone tried it.ive been promised a large box of broken auto handles to melt down (mazak) mazak is ideal for electroplating. it is my ambition to cast parts for models and electroplate them with brass.
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Engines of the Month July Bigal's
Bing 10-14-2 made between 1927-1932
&
Kusuchi's
Marklin 16051, 2004 limited edition
Click picture to enlarge
)
I think it would be illegal 
Bigal's